Travels through Normandy: Bayeux and Mont St Michel

Monday, July 21 was the day of our big departure to France. There has been lots of build up, discussion and planning (all planning care of my father, The Commander!). The ferry is overnight, leaving from Portsmouth at 11:30PM. We had a delicious dinner prior to leaving the house (sausage, lamb, salad), packed up the car and hit the road. The ferry terminal is only a half hour from the house, so it was an easy drive, but then you have to wait for an hour to put the car on.

Once we were on board, we found the cabin, (four bunks, Dad and Megs were relegated to the uppers); pj’s on and jumped into bed. Aside from Megan, we are a family of readers (and talkers, but you know that already!), so we whipped out the books and got to it. There are scads of announcements regarding the ferry preparing to leave, safety warnings, restaurants preparing to close, and various announcements looking for passengers. Since the ferry is between France and England, all announcements are done in both languages, so it takes twice as long. All four of us are giggling, farting and belching all the way through – there’s no keeping us down! Finally, everyone is asleep (with Mum’s warnings about Dad’s snoring), except for me. I have no clue how I slept as a child on a boat (like a rock, I remember), but that is now a far distant memory, and all I can think of is…work (what I did do, what I didn’t do, what I may be fired for upon my return); parenthood (will she make it through, will I make it through, how much therapy will we both need); boys (yes, even I still think of boys!!!); how can I improve upon my skills at being a less worse daughter (it involves not only remembering Christmas and birthdays, but actually getting gifts shipped, whew!); and last, but by no means least, what is the world coming to (gas prices, food prices, mortgages, etc, etc, etc.).

Roughly six hours later, we arrive in La Havre (click all the highlighted links for more info), deboard the car and set out for Bayeux (home of the Bayeux Tapestry, depicting Williams conquering of England). Since our last trip in December 2006, we have talked about Bayeux, and it’s links to Bosham (read all the way back to my first or second post, all will be revealed). Aside from a small issue getting out of La Havre (we weren’t lost, just mislaid), we got going just fine. We stopped in Dives Sur Mer, wandered around, admired the medieval architecture and shopped at a Charcuterie. The result was pate, ham, bread and a bottle of wine. One of the wonderful things of driving around France is the L’Aire’s, roadside picnic areas. I haven’t had pate this good since I lived in Antibes, and no one does pate the way the French do.


We made it to Bayeux around 3PM, and checked into the Hotel Tardif.. Yeah, check out that action – the house was offered to the Tardif family by Napoleon. If you know anything about architecture (the host sure does!), you will note that it covers three architectural periods. No, I didn’t know either, but even I know great architecture when I see it (plan on reading the word “architecture” over, and over, and over again!). Anywho, check out the site, the great photo’s and you may be able to imagine the delightful stay we enjoyed in Bayeux.



We went straight to the Tapestry, and were all amazed at the quality, intricacy and the development of the story via pictures. The tapestry is housed behind glass, and you can lean in close and see the detail of the stitching. Ok, so I know that everything was done by hand back then, and they were all experienced, but really, the planning of the story, the layout, the handwork, the whole deal, is just AMAZING! Having landed in England, and, since Harold was up north in Stanford Bridge, he had some time on his hands. So, he organized his troops, built a basic town, and got some rest. By the time Harold arrived with his troops, exhausted from the long ride, William and his army were well rested, and spent 8 hours in battle. By 6PM, Harold was dead, and William was the new King of England. Just another day at the office for a medieval Duke, who, by rights, should have been handed the crown upon Edwards death. Ok, well, maybe not quite that simple, he continued to crush English rebellions until 1072, which results in a united England.



After the Tapestry, Megan and I checked out the Notre Dame Cathedral (there seems to be one in each French city).
She dragged me down to the crypt, which was suitably spooky, and I realized I have viewed way too many horror movies! Once we met back up with Mum & Dad, we went to a wonderful exhibit of local porcelain. The designs of blue flowers on white porcelain were Mum’s favorite, while I love the rich colors of blue and gold. Then it was out to dinner, on a street filled with restaurants, which is fairly typical in France. Megan tried escargot (snails) for the first time, and enjoyed them (yay, my daughter may become a gourmand yet!). Snails really are just an excuse to eat huge amounts of garlic butter, which makes them super yummy.

Day 2 in France took us to Mont St Michel. As you get close, you can see it rising from the fields and sea, almost floating above the land. Parking is at the end of a causeway, which takes you to the entrance. Before the causeway was built, pilgrims to Mont St Michel battled the sea and quicksand to get to the Mont. The tide has been explained to come in as quickly as a galloping horse, which would suck if you had already gotten stuck in some quicksand!

So, quick history – the abbey dates back to the 8th century. Aubert, Bishop of Avranches, was visited three times by the Archangel Michael, in a dream. St Michael commanded him to build an oratory on Mont Tombe, the outcropping of rock that is now Mont St Michel. Aubert did not do as commanded immediately, which resulted in St Michael prodding him in the forward, leaving a dent. The oratory was subsequently built, and eventually replaced by an abbey. Other buildings were added through the following centuries, and the result is what we see today.


As you stand next to it, and look up, you can see what an amazing feat of engineering it is. Brick foundations rise up from the rock, which support a small town built around the abbey. Progressing onto the Mont itself, a narrow street winds up to the abbey. It’s not hard to imagine pilgrims working their way up, stopping to buy medals depicting St Michael, and lead amulets filled with sand from the beach. Hotels, souvenir shops and restaurants flourished, just as they do today. On a hot day (and it was hot the day we visited), it can get extremely uncomfortable.
People are crowding in the street, and in the various corridors leading to wherever (this place is a maze), and heat can be stifling. Still, think of the history on which you stand. The abbey was so well fortified; it never fell to an enemy, even during the Hundred Years War.
We enjoyed an easy ride back to Bayeux, followed by dinner and a walk. The pace of life here is peaceful (at least as a tourist), which is good, because all of this is only prepping for the Big One, a day in Paris. However, before this, we have to visit the D-day Beaches, which shall be my next post.