Monday, September 22, 2008

Travels through Normandy – Paris

Sooo, quick recap, we’ve ferried to La Havre, driven to Bayeux, Mont St Michel and Arromanches, seen almost everything there is to see, and eaten all the delicious French food we could (in restaurants and by the side of the road!). However, the Johnstone’s are not done with Normandy yet. Once we have been given a stiff dose of reality at Arromanches, we set off for Vernon.

Vernon is a beautiful, medieval town in Eastern Normandy. Well, let’s be honest, pretty much every town we have visited so far has been medieval, with original buildings, narrow streets and tons of atmosphere. We get to the center of Vernon, and find our hotel. It’s no Hotel Tardif (impossibly welcoming), but it has beds, a distinct improvement over some of the places I have visited. We arrive in the afternoon, and we are all ready for naps and refreshments. Over the past few days, we have made a habit of spending our early evenings (before we go to dinner) chatting with Mum & Dad over drinks. It is a great way to relax, review the happenings of the day, and make dinner plans.
The next day, Friday, we have breakfast and go straight to the station. Dad bought our train tickets the prior evening, and we are on the 8:45 train. It’s only a 45 minute ride to Paris St Lazare.

At our destination we board the metro and it’s off to the first stop of the day, The Eiffel Tower. Megan, Dad and I walk up to the first floor, and then take the lift to the second. Check out those photo’s, that’s the Seine behind us, pretty cool, eh?

Next, boat tours on the Seine, passing under some fabulous bridges, and drifting by buildings you only read about, or see in movies. The term “living history” comes to mind. Here we are, experiencing history, in all it’s architectural splendor. Thinking about it now, I can realize the big picture of this city. Each part of our day has built the complete picture, created by imaginations that knew no limits. What will our great grandchildren say about the buildings we leave behind? How will the architects of our generation leave their mark? As I think on it, it becomes more and more clear, that our neighborhoods, towns and cities are built in a far more disposable fashion.

Notre Dame is our next landmark, but first we stop for a quick lunch, and then it’s off to the Latin Quarter. It’s on the way to Notre Dame, and it makes for a nice interlude to all the rushing around we are doing. It also really deserves a few hours, as the potential to wonder little side streets and get lost in the culture is almost irresistible. In France, everything is made for your viewing pleasure, food, buildings, clothes, art, etc. Passing by charcouteries, you can see terrines that are simply beautiful. Patisserie windows are filled with desserts (large and small) that look too pretty to eat (however, once they are in your hand, it becomes that much easier!). Even the butchers (boucherie) shop makes the meat look ultra appetizing, and it’s not even cooked yet.

Back to Notre Dame (sorry, I am easily sidetracked), our next stop. What can I say; it’s a really big church! Let me explain, one of the keys of French architecture (especially French religious architecture) is that it is all completely over the top – so, yeah, it’s a really big church, but it’s so much more than that.







Take a look at these pictures, at the entrances (each arch is decorated in multiple layers), all the statues, and that rose window, another predominant feature in French churches.
















Unfortunately, we don’t have time to hang around for too long, just long enough to sit, appreciate the features of Notre Dame, and then it’s time for The Louvre. Back on the metro, and we come out directly across from our destination. I will warn you know, I don’t know that I have words for this, cause it is really, really spectacular. The Louvre was the residence (read “palace”) of the royal family before Versailles was completed. Walking into the courtyard, we pass through a carriage way, and it’s not hard to imagine the ‘clip, clop’ of horses hooves as they pull a carriage. Of course, all we can hear now is the footsteps of hundreds of tourists, but remember, you are walking in the footsteps of history.






Entering the courtyard is by far, the best experience ever.





The building is built in a U shape, around this courtyard. New additions include fountains, reflecting pools and of course, the famous glass pyramids.



What an incredible comparison of classic and contemporary, and on such a massive scale. The contemporary is made that much more real by the atmosphere. People are everywhere, talking, laughing, reading, pondering, and being themselves. People from all walks of life, speaking every language, taking a moment to appreciate their surroundings. This scene perfectly represents (and complements) the spirit of art, and the expression of artists through the ages. Some may want to push the boundaries, and develop scenes that challenge the way we think about and view the world around us, others want to depict the beauty they see in the world around them, whether it is the curve of a flower petal, the curve of a baby’s smiling cheek, or the curve of a comforting arm. Just as these people represent all walks of life, art depicts aspects of life, love, loss, anger, pain, beauty, joy, feelings, thoughts and emotions that no full life is without.

Yes, it's true, you cannot fully appreciate the joy and happiness of life without also experiencing the pain and tragedy. But, when the happiness, pain, joy and tragedy of life is experienced with the three people below, then I say "Bring it on", cause they make it all worth while.


All of this takes us to our final destination, Sacre Couer, built on the summit of the butte Montmartre. It is reputed to be dedicated the lives of 58,000 soldiers (hence it’s name Sacred Heart), who lost their lives in the year long, Franco-Prussian war. In reality, the request to build this basilica, made by the archbishop of Paris, specifies it is to “expiate the crimes of the communards”.


Er, no, not the Communards, 80’s band (singers of “Don’t leave me this way” & “Why?”), but the communards, members of the Paris Commune, a government that briefly ruled Paris in 1871. The Paris Commune were basically democratic socialists (without getting too deeply political), and I think we all know how the Catholic Church feels about free thinking lefties! Really want to know more (cause there is more, I promise, and my understanding is merely that, my limited understanding), then check out this link Basilique du Sacré-Cœur, Paris, & Basilique du Sacré Coeur. Ultimately, it is another really big church, but this one is definitely finished on a much grander scale than Notre Dame, and the whole effect, built on a summit, white stone, with multiple elevations and styles, it really is breathtaking.


Whew, ok, so I have finally finished up Paris! Gotta start writing about Giverny, thank goodness for notebooks and Google!